The northernmost of the major islands in the Japanese archipelago, Hokkaido represents one-fifth of the country's land mass but is inhabited by only one-twentieth of the total population. The island is the largest of Japan's 47 prefectures and is bordered by the Sea of Japan to the west, the Sea of Okhotsk to the north-east and the Pacific Ocean to the south.

Hokkaido is an island of stunning natural beauty, vast national parks with mountain ranges, volcanoes, forests, rivers, crashing waterfalls, wildlife ... and tourists. In the summer months, bikers, backpackers and cyclists descend on the island to feel what it is like to drive on the open road, unclogged by pollution, noise and urban development. Others come to escape the oppressive heat and humidity found elsewhere in Japan, to see cows, taste fresh Hokkaido milk, yoghurt and even Camembert-style cheese. In winter, when temperatures plummet and snow falls for months on end, skiers pour on to the slopes.

The bad news for the rail traveller is that as much as 45% of the Hokkaido network has closed in the last few decades. Spiralling costs, few passengers on remote lines and the difficulty of track maintenance in areas particularly exposed to the elements mean that some parts are no longer accessible by rail. But enough of the rail network remains to provide more than a glimpse of the spectacular natural environment. You'll be travelling on mostly rural lines, so don't expect lightning-fast services, but few other places in Japan offer such breathtaking scenery from the train window.